THE PART AcoustiSHIELD Automotive Insulation floor damper/barrier kit THE DISTRIBUTOR Quiet Ride Solutions 6507 Pacific Avenue, Ste. 334 Stockton, CA 95207 209/942-4777; www.quietride.com
THE CHALLENGE Reduce or eliminate high levels of heat and/or noise from a new, restored or older vehicle to provide better rider comfort and increase the lifespan of the engine and other mechanical systems. TIME TO COMPLETE Six to eight hours. COST TO YOU Universal kits list for $164. Precut vehicle-specific kit prices vary.PROFIT POTENTIAL On one of the most common projects, a 2005 through 2008 Mustang, the precut kit sells for $615. Figure on about an hour to strip out the interior and another two to three to install the kit. After reinstalling the interior, the total labor charge should be a half-day or more. Selling points include increased comfort; improved perceived value (that pleasing “thunk” when the door closes); and reduced A/C usage with increased fuel efficiency. The only potential problems are dealing with non-factory items, such as audio wiring, or discovering hidden rust or damage on an older car – although the repairs could add to the total bill. In these cases, allow for some wiggle room in the initial quote in case any unusual items are encountered along the way.
Sometimes it’s the stuff you can’t see that makes the difference between a good vehicle and a great one. It’s just human nature to focus on the obvious items — engine, bodywork and interior.
But what about the materials installed beneath and behind them? Without sufficient insulation for heat and sound, a restored or modified ride could end up being hot and noisy – an uncomfortable experience at best. Even if your customer isn’t planning on any upgrades, a factory-new vehicle can still suffer from a lack of sufficient shielding. But as we’ll show, this lack can be a gain for your shop, as installing insulation is fairly easy, and can make your customers happy while helping your bottom line.
Of course, many performance enthusiasts are quite proud of that bass-note burble that forces them to shut down at a fast-food drive-through. Truth is, as authoritative as that exhaust note might sound, over time it can get tiresome and actually add to driver fatigue. Booming tailpipes might be kind of fun for a short run, but not on a longer drive.
In addition, with a high-performance mill, heat can cause other problems. As a case in point, let me share a personal experience. In a previous life I worked for a certain well-known Texas chicken farmer turned racer and sports car builder, who decided to reintroduce the Cobra that he had created back in the ’60s.
When our factory mule was put together rather hurriedly as a display vehicle, a few key items were left out, such as barrier materials (insulation) in and around the fiberglass cockpit, and a rubber grommet on the steering column where the shaft passed through the firewall. So when that 427 big-block Ford V8 came up to operating temperature, a blast of hot air would funnel right in between the driver’s legs. While we jokingly referred to this feature as the “Shelby nut roaster,” it made for a rather unpleasant driving experience.
Personal comfort aside, high levels of noise and heat can interfere with a driver’s reaction time and concentration. Not only that, by adding good insulation, a vehicle’s air conditioner (A/C) will operate more efficiently, thus reducing fuel consumption and the risk of radiator boil-over. Insulation improves the fidelity of an audio system, as well.
A number of companies offer various forms of shielding. Some focus solely on heat, while others on noise attenuation. To see what’s involved in reducing both sound and heat, we sought out Tim Cox, president and owner of Quiet Ride Solutions, who took on significant challenge: a ’96 Dodge Ram dually powered by a 12V Cummins diesel and fitted with a Banks performance exhaust.
(All photos: S. Temple)
In order to reduce noise in any vehicle, we should first point out that sound can emanate from at least two different sources: solid material, such as the frame and body panels, and through the air, such as from the exhaust pipe and somewhat surprisingly, the air intake.
Lowering airborne noise might require toning down that noisemaker under the hood, which is probably not an option for performance-oriented customers. However, one option is to check the rubber stripping on the windows. If you spot any big cracks or missing chunks, offer to install new rubber.
4 Use a roller to press the Dynamat strips in place, so they bond tightly with the sheet metal. 5 The factory insulation is pretty thin, consisting of low-density foam in the foot wells and plastic bags filled with fiberglass wall insulation thrown into the rear quarters of the cabin. 6 Spray adhesive on the underside of the padding. A double application on the edges is a good idea to ensure a tight bond.
If the rubber looks dry but is otherwise intact, applying some petroleum jelly should make it more compliant for a better seal. In addition, inspect the floorboard and firewall for any unnecessary openings. Those can be filled with spray-on foam typically used for filling holes and cracks in homes.
To minimize vibration-borne noise, the basic approach is similar to placing your hand on the skin of a drum. Flat areas of a vehicle’s sheet metal produce the most sound, so these need the most attention. However, the entire cabin area should be insulated wherever possible.
