Marbleizing is one of the most versatile techniques in a custom painter's bag of tricks. In fact, many custom painters would say that it should be one of the first tricks that a new custom painter perfects, because it is relatively easy to do and often can be used to lend that "pop" we are all looking for.
This article will take you through the steps to produce a marbleized paint job. It also will explore some variations on the marbleizing technique that can be used to create different designs. It also will show you how to mix your own marbleizing paint to reduce your cost – and more importantly, to broaden the choices you have for the marble colors.Marbleizing paint is nothing more than a clear with a translucent color or paint effect suspended in it that dries slowly, allowing enough time to complete the marbleizing techniques. Although it is offered for sale by custom paint supply houses, it is so easy to mix from existing materials in specific amounts and colors that it makes sense just to mix it as you need it.
Start with an intermediate clear. Most paint companies have one (the clear that is used for the first clear coat of wet bedding when blending production paint). Though many of the paint companies no longer call for reducers in their finish clears, almost all of them provide an intermediate clear. It may be called colorless basecoat, blending clear, intermediate clear or even the well-known 500. Most of these are not a catalyzed coating that is reduced. It's important that you reduce it with the slowest reducer or the one used for the hottest temperature. In fact, most paint companies supply a reducing product, often called an extender for extreme heat, which slows down the drying process, allowing better flow out in hot weather. It's important that the coating stays wet long enough for you to complete the marbleizing technique or techniques, as you will learn later.Once the required amount of intermediate clear with a slow reducer is mixed, the color effects can be added. One of the most common marbleizing color effects is the normal pearl you use for production painting, though you can use a small amount of a translucent base to tint the clear any color you wish. In fact, there is no reason you couldn't use two or more pearls to get the effect you are looking for. How much to add depends on how much clear you have mixed. It should be enough to achieve the contrasting color effect you desire in only one medium coat of two light coats. Film thickness is important here; you don't want high film build when you de-mask. With the marbleizing color mixed, the job should be prepped and the tools needed for the marbleizing technique should be gathered.
STEP 1
First, lay out the design. In this case, we will be demonstrating marbleized flames. As with any custom design, make sure the masking is tight to the surface so you won't get any paint blowing under the masking. Clean it and tack the area to be painted. Being scrupulously clean is the number one rule in custom painting! There just isn't any room for "nibbing out" before clearing.
STEP 2
Apply one medium or two light coats of the marbleizing coating (see Fig. 1). You should overlap each stroke by 75 to 80 percent. Watch the wet-line so no streaks or dry spots occur. A second light coat ("control coat") can be applied to even out the color. Remember, it will dry slowly so you must keep the film thickness as thin as possible.
STEP 3
Next, lay a plastic sheet that you have prepared before the paint work started over the wet marbleizing coat (see Fig. 2). The same plastic coat that is used for bagging a vehicle when masking works fine. Here is where the technique and its variations come into play. If the plastic comes into contact fully with no gaps or air bubbles, a large pattern will result. If that's what you're looking for, raise the plastic and you have your effect.But if you want a smaller, more intricate pattern, let the plastic only lightly touch the wet coating. With the original plastic still in place, use a wadded piece of plastic to lightly touch the plastic, which will produce a smaller effect (see Fig. 3). The tighter the wadded substance, the smaller the effect. Some painters will use a piece of wadded aluminum foil or a piece of sponge – anything that will cause the original plastic to randomly touch the wet coating.
STEP 4
When you have the effect you want, let the coating flash, which will take longer than normal because of the reducer used. Then de-mask.
STEP 5
Start by taking off the large part of the masking, leaving the tape that is next to the coating (see Fig. 4). Then pull the tape at a 45-degree angle to the marble (see Fig. 5). This cuts a sharp line, and is less likely to produce a jagged edge.
If an imperfection is seen outside the marbleizing (see Fig. 6), clean it up prior to the next step. Use sandpaper or a Meguiar's block to remove the imperfection. Even thinner on a cloth could be used, but remember that the marbleizing coating is not catalyzed or fully dry yet, and it too can be rubbed off with thinner unless proper care is taken.
Next, the marbleized design can be used without pinstriping or anything else besides a good protective clear. Or it can have candy applied over it, which will produce a more subtle effect.It can be combined with smoke, spider-webbing, lace, stippling, rain drops, airbrushing or just about any other effect you want. As you can see, marbleizing is very versatile. It's a great simple technique that custom painters have used for a long time and will continue to use when the goal is designing paint projects that will get that "Wow!" reaction.
